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Caddis Bead Sedge Larva
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Cased caddis create a case for themselves from debris within their surrounding environment. This can include small twigs, leaves stones and sand. They live in both rivers and still waters, poking their heads out of the cases using their legs to move. Both trout and grayling love these protein packed morsels and when available will gorge themselves. The above pattern can be used for both still and running water but comes into the fore on rivers. The inclusion of the split shot on top of the shank means that the hook will fish upside down therefore keeping the hook from getting fouled on the river bed. The body is composed from hares ear which is a good general body material for most cases, however, substituting for different coloured seals fur or even gluing sand to the body will help you match the naturals. The Cadis bead is a substitute for the inner body of the pupa. This produces a good hitting spot for the fish, even in coloured water and emulates the natural shape of the peeping caddis. The best way to fish this pattern is Czech nymph style on the point of a 3 fly cast, keeping the fly as near to the river bed as possible. Fly Tying Method
Tying Procedure 1. Take a short length of 25lb mono and melt 1 end until you get a ball of molten mono with a lighter. Let cool
2. Colour the end of the mono with a black permanent marker.
3. Take another piece of 25lb mono and crimp on a piece of non toxic split shot. The size of shot will depend on how much weight you need on the fly
4. Put the hook in the vice and bed the shank with thread. Tie in 1 side of the mono with the split shot attached making sure you leave enough mono so that when you fold the mono over the split shot lies flat against the shank of the hook. When positioning the mono make sure that the split in the shot faces away from the shank of the hook. This ensures that if the shot becomes looses whilst fishing the shot will remain in place so that you can re crimp if needed.
5. Return the thread to the eye. Wax the thread and dub some hares ear on the thread. I personally like to use a hair rake and rake the hair off the ear on the mask. This ensures that there is plenty of guard hares in the mix and will give a spiky texture to the body.
6. Fold the mono over and tie in. Give plenty of wraps to ensure that the mono is secure. Trim the excess mono.
7. Take the other piece of mono and slip on the caddis bead.
8. Tie in this mono with the bead just in front of the bend of the hook. Give plenty of wraps of thread to secure. Trim excess mono.
9. Select a partridge hackle and tie in at the tip with the curvature of the hackle facing outwards.
10. Trim the excess of the tip and wind on the hackle, giving it plenty of turns. Tie in and trim excess.
11. Here you can tie in a rib if you require. Bed the shank of the hook with plenty of thread to give a level shank. Wax the thread and dub loosely with the raked hares ear.
12. Wind the dubbed thread along the shank. If you have included a rib, rib the body here and tie off. Dub a small amount of thread and in 1 turn move the position of the from in front of the split shot to the eye. Whip finish and varnish. The fly is complete.
For an alternative to the split shot why not try jig hooks by Juri Klima. These not only make the fly easier to tie but the hooks have been plated and have a gold colour which grayling just love. Below is an example using seals fur for the body and fine copper wire for the rib.
Tight lines and good luck! Steve |
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